Recent Posts

Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 10
Alternator Questions / 302 Found
« Last post by NormanTyday on May 10, 2017, 11:09:27 AM »
????????-??????? ? ???????????? ??????? ???????? ? ????????? ? ?????? ?????? ? ???????. ????? ?? ??????? ?????????? ??????????? ????, ??????? ? ????????, ????????????? ??????, ??????-????????, ? ????? ?????????, ?????????? ?????????, ?????? ????? ??? ?????. ????? ????, ???????? ?????? ??? ???????, ?????? ??? ????? ? ??????. ??????????? ?????????. ?? ?????? ??????? ????? ?????????????? ??? ??????????????? ???????? ????? ????????. ?????? ?????????? ?? ???. ????
Alternator Questions / cs130 starts and stops
« Last post by larlok on October 29, 2016, 11:58:00 PM »

So I've got the 350 with a CS130 and I've been pulling my hair out chasing this charging issue, started about two weeks ago, first start of the day I'm getting a good 14.3V at the battery as she heats up it drops to around 13.7, then after 10 min at idle no charge at all, but a while later all is good again.

The alternator is about 2 months old and I have an LED charge lamp with about a 500Ohm resistor in series, i have a 82Ohm 5W resistor in parallel going to the 'L' terminal on the reg and i have ignition voltage going to 'F/I' terminal, I have replaced the B+ with 2AWG cable straight to the battery and same for the earth strap, the battery is new the terminals are new and i have new power distribution bars.

I have thermo fans and two audio amps both go to the battery, with there own fuses.

When it stoped charging i checked both the 'L' and 'F/I' and i still have power there, there is little to no resistance in the battery and earth cable. It doesn't seem to coincide with and electrical loading like when the thermo fans start.

Although I don't have a means to test overall electrical load.

I'm thinking if its the reg or the rectifier it wouldn't come good after a while, but i have notice that the alternator is ridiculously hot to touch and it seems to stop charging while the fans are blowing hot air on the alternator so im leaning towards heat related issue but because I'm in Australia I cant just get a new one.

I've done a fair bit of research and I'm under the impression that the regs have a thermal shutdown protection could this be getting tripped?

Any help or guidence would be greatly appreciated.

Alternator Installations / 2005 Corvette w/ LS2 CS 130D Alternator Upgrade Questions
« Last post by Danielvix on September 27, 2016, 05:28:38 PM »
Great post    a 250 amp alternator his on my list for this spring when I do my roof lights.
Alternator Installations / Re: 2005 Corvette w/ LS2 CS-130D Alternator Upgrade Questions
« Last post by tydriver on September 16, 2016, 02:43:59 PM »
Nobody ?? Not a single response?? Anyone ??

I've continued to research this issue since posting here and I have additional information. My research now indicates that the alternator installed on my car may actually be a VALEO alternator.. If this is the case I assume Valeo alternators are not the same as a CS130D alternator.. Correct ??

I have found even LESS information available online about Valeo and their alternators.. It would appear that they are a French company? They make alternators in Mexico ??  IDK, anyhow I am still having this problem and want to tear into it and fix it.  How can I make the output higher on this alternator, does anyone have any input ?
Alternator Questions / Starter for a Perkins A 4-192 Diesel 4 cyl motor
« Last post by catherine123 on September 14, 2016, 01:32:40 AM »
Hello I need a starter for my Perkins A 4-192 diesel 4 cyl. motor.  It currently has a Lucus m-45 G 26178
RF22 12 VOLT.
Can you help me? 
Alternator Installations / 2005 Corvette w/ LS2 CS-130D Alternator Upgrade Questions
« Last post by tydriver on September 07, 2016, 09:42:01 PM »
I've been reading quite a bit all over the internet lately and I am still stumped to find a conclusive answer.  I own a 2005 Chevy Corvette with the LS2 engine. The RPO tag says its 105 amp installation (later year cars (2006+) came with 150 amp standard).

With the southern (Tennessee) heat, using the air conditioning, and the radiator fans at full song the voltage drops to 11.9v - 12.1v at idle in gear. The voltage goes back up to 13.5v at anything over 800 RPM (i.e. normal driving conditions).  This tells me that the unit is working fine, its just undersized at idle, truth be told 105 amp is probably a little light for such an electronic car anyhow..

Sure, I could just grab an alternator from a 2006+ car, but what fun would that be ? I mean hot-rodding is all about DIY'ing something cooler than stock.  I want more power than 150 amp to ensure this is a once and done deal (200+ amps would be nice as additional fans are anticipated for additional coolers, trans/oil etc..). I understand a lot of sites like to recommend an upgrade in equipment to the AD244 alternator.

The problem I have with upgrading to an AD244, is that the clearance on this car is a bit tight around the alternator and I am not certain this alternator will fit. It physically appears bigger to me, in all the pictures I have seen.

I'm pretty handy with tools (A&P mechanic) and I've rebuilt an alternator or two in my past, but nothing as new as this unit. So this leads me to two questions I cannot find an answer to:

1.   Is the case on the AD 244 physically larger than that of the CS-130D alternator ?  (I understand the critical dimensions like mount bolts, electrical connector, and pulley etc are all the same).

2.   Are any parts available to make the CS-130D a "High Output" unit so I can retain the same size case/unit ?   

3.  What amperage is available, I've swapped stators and other 'innards' on other alternators in the past and I am not afraid to do it again, I just want to get the correct parts the FIRST time.

Thanks in advance for any assistance that anyone can offer. I appreciate it !!

Alternator Questions / Re: 1972 Silver Shadow
« Last post by drew on August 02, 2016, 01:33:28 PM »
The main culprits are the regulator and the rectifier. If the rectifier is bad, it will show reverse continuity when you check the diodes using a multimeter. If the regulator is bad, the alternator will either over- or under-charge. The brushes could also be worn out, making it look like a bad regulator. I would give you more detailed troubleshooting info, but Rolls Royce has next to no service info for their charging systems.
It's very simple, the pins of the 4-pin regulator are PLFS, Pulse Light Field Sense. All you need is a resisted ignition connection to the L pin.
Alternator Questions / Re: Voltage drop
« Last post by drew on August 02, 2016, 01:28:29 PM »
No, that's a sign that your bridge rectifier has failed.
Alternator Questions / Voltage drop
« Last post by blaster on June 24, 2016, 09:19:49 PM »
When checking for a voltage drop, I found positive terminal of my CS130 Delco alternator to show continuity to ground. Thus grounding my positive cable.  Is this normal?
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 ... 10