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Topics - drew

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In this video we show you how to test for a bad voltage regulator plug connection. You might be able to get 12V from the ignition lead, but the may be too low to activate the alternator. Using a test light and a multi meter, we go through a step-by-step troubleshooting procedure and repair the alternator plug on a Mercury Mountaineer featuring a Motorcraft 4G series alternator.

http://youtu.be/VYkTdnwQKJ4

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News / New! QuikCool Alternator Cooling System Now Available
« on: May 07, 2013, 02:46:20 PM »
New! QuikCool Alternator Cooling System

Maybe you have one of those well designed vehicles like many Fords with the alternator mounted in the center of the engine, where it cooks. Or you have one of those well engineered vehicles with the alternator right next to the exhaust manifold. Perhaps you've added extra equipment such as car audio, pull a trailer, or have a camper, added off road lights, radiator cooling fans, have motor home and more, you are putting a strain on your alternator, which creates tons of heat. Check it out, run your extra equipment then feel how hot your alternator is getting, be careful not to burn yourself.

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News / New Ford F-Series Truck High Output Alternator Page
« on: October 07, 2010, 01:36:21 PM »
http://www.alternatorparts.com/ford-f-series-truck-high-output-alternator.html

[h=1]New Ford F-Series Truck High Output Alternator Page[/h]
Quote from: From the Page
In 1973 Ford started using their first generation of alternators. Dubbed the 1G, this alternator was externally regulated in amperes ranging from 40-65 Amps. The 1G was in service on the F-Series truck until about 1992. It was later replaced by the 2G series alternator from 1986 to 1992, the 2G is not upgradeable to a higher output because of its weak bridge rectifier and the power plug can catch on fire from the higher amperage load. The best high output upgrade for the early 1G series alternator and the 2G series alternator is the Ford type 3G series alternator

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Alternator FAQ / Isolated Dual Alternators For Motor-home Conversion
« on: September 20, 2010, 12:50:21 PM »
Quote from: John P
I'm looking to convert a Step Van into a homemade motor home/camper.  Rather than REPLACING the stock alternator, I'm wondering about installing a second, high output alternator whose output would go only to the house batteries, thus avoiding isolator problems.  I'm wondering how to prevent the alternator from overcharging the house batteries on a long trip.  What would serve as the voltage regulator in a case like that?  Could the output somehow be wired through the same controller that controls charging when the motor home is plugged into shore power?  Could a magnetic clutch, such as is used on automotive AC compressors, be used to turn it off when it isn't needed?

Regards
John P

Excellent question John. Dual alternators are the way to go when dealing with battery banks you want separated. Battery isolators waste power, and all that power costs money, in gas or main-line electricity.

One caveat with dual alternators is the mounting. If you're using the Chevy P-30 Step-Van as your chassis, we offer a universal GM dual alternator bracket for vehicles '99 and up.

Dual Alternator Brackets: http://www.alternatorparts.com/category_brackets.html

Now to control your alternator and keep it from overcharging your batteries, you need what's called a self-exciting voltage regulator, or SE voltage regulator for short. The self-exciting voltage regulator senses battery voltage and turns your alternator on as it goes below around 14.3 volts. There are several alternators that come optional with the SE regulator, but our most common and easy to deal with ones are the Si and CS series for GM; or the 3G and 6G series for Ford.

For dual deep cycle batteries, you need the most power and greatest durability, so I recommend the Extreme Duty CS144 Dual Rectifier Alternator:
http://www.alternatorparts.com/category_cs144.html

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Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems

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Quote from: From the Description
Often, wiring and electrical work intimidates automotive do-it-yourselfers the most. It's not mechanical, and therefore, it's unfamiliar territory. Electrons are invisible, and they can do unpredictable things in an untrained enthusiast's eyes. Finally, there is an enthusiast's guide that takes the mysteries and misunderstandings out of automotive electrical design, modification, diagnostics, and repair.
Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems is the perfect book to unshroud the mysteries of automotive electrics and electronic systems. The basics of electrical principles, including voltage, amperage, resistance, and Ohm's Law, are revealed in clear and concise detail, so the enthusiast understands what these mean in the construction and repair of automotive electrical circuits. All the tools and the proper equipment required for automotive electrical tasks are covered. In addition, this in-depth guide explains how to perform more complex tasks, such as adding new circuits, installing aftermarket electronics, repairing existing circuits, building your own wiring harness, and troubleshooting. Author Tony Candela explains how to complete popular wiring projects, such as adding late-model electronic accessories and convenience items to earlier-model cars, installing relays, designing and assembling multi-function circuits and harnesses, and much more.
With this book in hand, you will be able to assemble, design, and build single- and multi-function circuits and harnesses, troubleshoot and repair existing circuits, and install aftermarket systems and electronics. Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems is your essential guide for wiring a hot rod from scratch, modifying muscle car electrical circuits for cooling fans and/or power windows, or adding a premium stereo and other conveniences to modern performance cars.


If you need top quality part and components, or you need high output alternators, check us out at AlternatorParts.com

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How to Diagnose and Repair Automotive Electrical Systems - AlternatorParts.com

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A fine introduction to the world of automotive electric. This book will give you the fundamentals to start working on your own alternators and starters.

Quote from: From the Description
Tracy Martin, an ASE (Automotive Service Excellence) Certified Master Technician, explains the principles behind automotive electrical systems and how they work. This book details the various tools, such as multimeters and test lights, that can be used to check and troubleshoot any vehicle’s electrical system. Several hands-on projects take readers on a guided tour of their vehicle’s electrical system and show how to fix specific problems.

If you need top quality part and components, or you need high output alternators, check us out at AlternatorParts.com

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Visit: Alternatorparts.com
How alternators work part one, voltage regulators and how rotors use them

How Alternators Work Part 1, Rotors & Voltage regulators

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Delco-Remy GM type positive ground 10si alternator conversion

Delco-Remy GM type positive ground 10si alternator conversion

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Visit: Alternatorparts.com How to Load a 10Si series Alternator Brusholder, 10 si brusholder loading

Delco-Remy GM type positive ground 10si alternator conversion

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Alternator Installations / 1996 GMC Yukon CS144 Installation Caveats
« on: August 11, 2010, 02:02:50 PM »
I got an email from Don P regarding some potential issues with installing the Heavy Duty 140 Amp CS144 series alternator on 1996 style GMC Yukon vehicles. Here it is with some pictures.

Quote
Thank you for your great product and your technical assistance over the phone. I successfully converted my 1996 Yukon SLT with the OEM 100 amp CS130D on the 5.7 motor, to your 140 amp CS144 with the heavy duty rectifier a couple of weeks ago. It works great! After I installed it my engine idle smoothed out and it even improved the off-the-line power. The transmission was previously starting to slip slightly on high speed up shifts, but that also went away after I installed your alternator! I guess the old 100 amp was just not putting out enough power for my vehicle. I did also install the supplemental ground wire you suggested from one of the rear CS144 casing mounting bolt holes to the negative battery cable.

I ran into a couple of installation issues that I would like to pass on to you so you can post it on your installation help page. I included some pictures for help, use the ones you like.

The issues were:

  • The original heater hose return hard pipe needs to be changed. It interferes with the CS 144 case. GM made a separate hose assembly for the CS144 alternator option. I purchased it from a GM dealer. I included photos of the original and the replacement hose assembly.
  • The original serpentine belt does not fit with the CS 144. It is too small. GM made a separate belt for the CS144 alternator option. I purchased the correct belt also from the dealer.
  • This is a suggestion: I installed 3/8" Black corrugated wire harness protector on your W1206 wire harness adaptor to protect the wires from the sharp edges of the cast aluminum alternator mount. I noticed the potential problem when I routed the wiring harness during installation. It would be nice to have that pre-installed on the W1206 for people that might not see the issue when they are installing their new alternator.

**Another small suggestion**  I found it a little difficult to locate your installation help page. It is VERY good and a GREAT thing to have on your website. Highlight it throughout your website, making it VERY easy to find. Be PROUD of it, you should be. It will bring more happy customers to your website as well because the search engines will highlight you more it as well!

Thank you again for all your help! I will definitely recommend you to everyone who needs your products!

Regards,

Don Paquette

West Linn, Oregon

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Original Page
[h=1]What is the difference between connection batteries parallel or series?[/h]
[h=2]Commonly Asked Auto Electric Email Questions and Answers[/h]
AlternatorParts.com - Top Quality High Output Alternator and Charging System Solutions for Demanding Situations.

Quote from: Question
What is the difference in connection batteries in parallel or series?

Answer:
When you connect batteries in parallel you connect positive to positive and negative to negative. With a parallel connection you are increasing the size of the pool of power you have but the voltage stays the same as the original batteries. To connect in series you connect positive to negative then you get one positive from one battery and the negative from the other battery. When you connect two batteries in series it adds the voltage up. So if you have two 12 volt batteries and connect them in series you will end up with 24 volts.

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Original Page

[h=1]Will the Quicktifier 210 give my 105 amp GM alternator more power?[/h]

Question:
Quote from: David
Will installing the Quicktifier 210 on my 105 amp GM alternator get me more power from this unit or will I need to upgrade the alternator  also.

Answer:
The main function of the Quicktifier is to add durability. You will get a bit more power but not that much. The Quicktifier should only be used when the alternator has enough power but it doesn't hold up.

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Original Page

[h=1]I Want To Wire Up Two Batteries, Do I Need A Battery Isolator[/h]

Question
Quote
I want to wire up two batteries, do I need a battery Isolator. Or should I wire them negative to negative and positive to positive.

Answer
In most cases you do not want to connect the batteries using a battery isolator. Battery isolators are hard on alternators because they have a voltage drop within the isolator and they are restrictive to current flow, so your alternator has to power that voltage drop and resistance. The only time you use a battery isolator is in motor homes or boats. When you sit for long times with you motor off and you want to be sure your vehicle starts in the morning, this is when you would use a battery isolator.  If you are not concerned about sitting to long and not getting your vehicle started then you should connect multiple batteries in parallel like they are one single battery. Connecting them in parallel is positive connecting to positive and negative to negative.

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Original Page
[h=1]I have 98 chevy k3500 5.7 105 amp alt use truck for plowing looking to up grade alternator to at least 140 or bigger?[/h]

Question
Quote from: Leroy
I have 98 chevy k3500 5.7 105 amp alt use truck for plowing looking to up grade alt to at least 140 or bigger? Not sure witch way to go same style case or go with 140 amp type . any info would be help full thanks.

Answer
The very best alternator for your snow plow application Is the large case CS144 type alternator, this is the optional high output alternator GM used on Cadillacs, Buick's and other high draw applications.

The 140 amp unit, which is the base output, will give you 3 times more power at idle compared to the small 105 amp unit, even the upgraded version and will be much more dependable at the higher output. Upgrading you existing case size alternator would be a great disappointment. We have a version that will bolt directly in the same mounts plus we have the D1-W1206 wiring harness adapter that is needed. The stock cs103D 105 amp unit has a different shaped plus. The wiring harness adapter allows you to plug the adapter into your existing wiring then plug directly into the alternator. You must upgrade the wiring size when upgrading the alternator.

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Original Page

Quote from: Arye
Dear Quick Start Automotive Electric,

I'm an inventor and I've developed a new type of engine which I'm looking forward to use in electricity production.

Due to the fact that I lack knowledge in electrical engineering, I turn to you in order to find answers to some key questions I'm having. I'll appreciate it a lot if you'd be able to answer a few (silly?) questions for me. :)

My questions are as follows:

  • 1. Do you manufacture the alternators, or are you just a reseller of them? In case you're not the manufacturer, may I know who it is?
  • 2. I saw you're offering special 350 Amps alternators. At what voltage do these operate? 24V? 36? I'm asking because that is the one I'm looking to buy (350Amps @ 24/36V).
  • 3. In kWh, how much power does your 350 Amps alternators produce? (Refer to the one I'm looking to buy, 350Amp @ 24/36V).
  • 4. I read a little about it in your site and in Wikipedia, and figured your alternators eventually output DC, while I'm looking for AC. Is it possible to ask that you'll remove the diode bridge from the alternator, or must I do it myself?
  • 5. Yours alternators are 3-phase, right?
  • 6. In order to get the voltage/current running at a frequency of 50Hz, do you have any idea how many RPM must the alternator spin at?
  • 7. Is it possible to connect a few alternators together in order to sum up their currents/voltages? If so, in what configuration do I connect them to each other? Please remember that these alternators are AC sources, not DC sources. So I don't believe that the simple rules of coupling DC sources apply here as well.
  • 8. I live in Israel. That doesn't interfere with anything, right? After purchasing an alternator, you'll be able to send it overseas or in an airplane, correct?
  • 9. I'd need the technical drawing of the alternator. Is it possible to get, or are these confidential? I need to know at least the outer dimensions of the case (in order to anchor it securely) and the end of the rotor axis (the round thingy which the alternator belt wraps around).
  • 10. Can you supply me with a little physical data regarding the alternator I want to buy? (center of gravity, weight, etc.)

Ahm... That's all. :) I appreciate all the time you're taking to even read my e-mail..!

Yours greatly and looking forward to hearing from you

Answer
  • 1. We manufacture most all our high output alternators. stock units we resell.
  • 2. 12 volt but on special order we can make them other voltages, but at the higher voltages it will be tough to get 350 amps. I'm not sure what amperage we can do.
  • 3. 350 amps at 24 or 36 volts is a very big alternator, I do not believe a standard auto or truck can be upgraded to 350 amps at 24 or 36 volts. Achieving 350 amps at 36 volts will be the toughest.
  • 4. Yes we can remove the bridge rectifier from the alternator.
  • 5. Yes alternators are 3 phase AC. Some can be made 6 phase.
  • 6. It depends on the winding configuration and the type alternator used, some alternators have more poles so the will obtain 50Hz with less rpm's.
  • 7. You could but it would be very difficult in that you must align phases with AC current to run them together in series or parallel. .Series would be more difficult that parallel.
  • 8. You have to pay shipping.
  • 9. Do not have this
  • 10. Weight, general overall dimensions and shipping container size is all I have.

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