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Messages - drew

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Alternator Questions / Re: 1972 Silver Shadow
« on: August 02, 2016, 01:33:28 PM »
The main culprits are the regulator and the rectifier. If the rectifier is bad, it will show reverse continuity when you check the diodes using a multimeter. If the regulator is bad, the alternator will either over- or under-charge. The brushes could also be worn out, making it look like a bad regulator. I would give you more detailed troubleshooting info, but Rolls Royce has next to no service info for their charging systems.

It's very simple, the pins of the 4-pin regulator are PLFS, Pulse Light Field Sense. All you need is a resisted ignition connection to the L pin.

Alternator Questions / Re: Voltage drop
« on: August 02, 2016, 01:28:29 PM »
No, that's a sign that your bridge rectifier has failed.

Those crimped and soldered connections on the Denso regulators can be tricky. You might need some desoldering braid, they usually have it at RadioShack or any local specialty electronics/electrician supply store. If you have to, cut the regulator side of the tab then go from there.

Alternator Questions / Re: 12 SI regulator Question
« on: October 28, 2015, 01:21:27 PM »
The light will always be dimmer. That connection has to power both the no-charge light and the alternator's regulator. The other dash lights are just a bulb, that's it.

Alternator Questions / Re: battery light coming on only under load
« on: October 28, 2015, 01:18:33 PM »
If you're charging normally (14.2V is a very good charging voltage) at steady RPMs, but it gives you a battery light on acceleration, the belt could be slipping. Check your belt tension.

The connections for your regulator are as follows:

F - Alternator Rotor Field.
A - Battery Positive, hot at all time.
S - Stator Signal, used for tachometer
I - No Charge Light / Switched Ignition Connection
Case - Battery Negative (very important the regulator has a good ground connection to both the alternator and the battery.)

Alternator Questions / Re: How to excite alternator
« on: October 28, 2015, 12:48:08 PM »
There doesn't seem to be a replacement regulator for that unit that doesn't require computer communication. You would have to open the unit up and attach wires to the brush holder directly, then run that to an external voltage regulator.

Yep, putting a rheostat on the field wire will let you adjust the charge rate to your liking. Reducing the RPMs is not recommended, as alternators give smoother output at higher RPMs.

Alternator Questions / Re: CS-130/CS-130D dual installation
« on: April 09, 2014, 03:22:54 PM »
The P-L-I/F-S terminals stand for

  • Phase/Pulse: A stator signal used by tachometers
  • Light: The Vehicle no-charge light, also used for alternator activation
  • Ignition / Field: This pin is different for the different types of regulators. On PLIS regulators, this is a switched ignition activation lead, there is an internal, resisted connection to the L terminal. In PLFS regulators, this is the Field terminal, which will report the field voltage to the vehicle computer to determine alternator load
  • Sense: This is the voltage sense for the regulator, cutting back the field voltage if the system voltage set point is reached.

Now, for most applications only the L terminal is used for activation. Unfortunately you can't just cut the power to this L terminal and stop the alternator. After the alternator is activated, it powers itself with the electricity it generates. To actually stop the alternator from charging with a fried regulator, you would have to ground the hot brush internally. With the way these regulators work, one brush is always grounded and the regulator varies the voltage to the hot brush. If you ground the hot brush, the field and output voltage drops to zero.

Alternator Questions / Re: Everything I typed got erased.
« on: April 09, 2014, 02:50:25 PM »
I apologize, the verification and the question are due to us being the target of spam attacks.

We have actually come up with what we think is a better solution. It's the large case 3G series alternator combined with our Quicktifier external rectifier system, giving you a dual rectifier alternator.

Alternator Questions / Re: Where to install the FRM for jeep vehicles
« on: August 19, 2013, 02:53:33 PM »
The FRM attaches to your old regulator connections. I have attached a simple diagram. There are some things to be sure of before you install the FRM:

  • Be sure the regulator is adjusted (it's set at 14.5V from the factory) so that you see a good charging voltage at the battery (14.2 to 14.5) before connecting the FRM.
  • Make sure there is a good ground connection to the regulator. That means a small wire from the regulator's metal case to the alternator case, then a large wire from the alternator case to the battery.
  • Make sure you have a good ignition connection to the regulator. This connection is battery voltage sense for the regulator, so if the voltage is low here the alternator will over-charge. This ignition line has to be at the same voltage as your battery, and always hot when the key is on (not just when the starter activates). If you have a weak ignition from the keyswitch, you need to add a relay to switch power directly from the battery.

Then you wire up the FRM to your old regulator connections. Be sure these only connect to the FRM, make sure they aren't connected to the alternator regulator connections or grounded. Also, don't use any tape on the FRM connections, as they can heat up.

Alternator Questions / Re: What affect if the nut to B+ is left off??
« on: July 26, 2013, 02:08:02 PM »
Loss of battery while the alternator is active will definitely burn out the voltage regulator. Another problem is that the loose connection can arc and weld the battery post and rectifier internals.

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