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Author Topic: 01 Chevy Suburban Alternator install of the 250 amp Dual Rectifier Alternator  (Read 1889 times)
Phatsub
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« on: August 25, 2009, 08:33:37 PM »

The rear end-cover is installed 1/4 turn off. This is preventing it from sliding into the bolt mounts. Can I remove the end cover and rotate it to the right place, or should I send it back?



Quote from: drew
This is some exemplary work, so I changed the title and stickied it.
« Last Edit: September 04, 2009, 11:49:54 PM by Randy » Logged
drew
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« Reply #1 on: August 26, 2009, 11:29:04 AM »

This is an easy fix. Take out the case screws and break free the front housing, not the rear. The stator stays with the rear housing so freeing that will not allow clocking. You need to make the front just barely clear the rear case, any more and the brushes will come off the slip ring and you could break them putting the alternator back together. You can then re-clock the front case, double checking the clocking, and tap the cases together with a nylon hammer. When you put the case screws back in, make sure to tighten in a star pattern so the cases are straight on.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2009, 09:27:47 PM by Randy » Logged

Phatsub
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« Reply #2 on: August 26, 2009, 11:49:09 AM »

Thanks Drew, I was hoping I wouldn't have to send it in. I can do this after work tonight. You can disregard the personal email I sent you a few minutes ago.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2009, 09:28:11 PM by Randy » Logged
drew
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« Reply #3 on: August 26, 2009, 01:54:32 PM »

If you have any issues we have a nice video on taking the CS144 apart http://asktherebuilder.com/forum/index.php/topic,34.0.html
« Last Edit: August 26, 2009, 09:28:30 PM by Randy » Logged

Phatsub
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« Reply #4 on: August 26, 2009, 02:00:32 PM »

Cool. I'll have to look at that at home. Work for some reason, blocks us from youtube, otherwise I'd be watching videos all day instead of working. :-)
« Last Edit: August 26, 2009, 09:28:51 PM by Randy » Logged
Phatsub
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« Reply #5 on: August 26, 2009, 09:12:43 PM »

Well, after clocking the alternator and a bit of grinding on the rear case, I got it installed. I'll post the grind pics tomorrow. I have yet another issue now...What in the world does it take to push the idler pulley down far enough to get the serpintine belt back on? This thing is imposible!
« Last Edit: August 26, 2009, 09:29:16 PM by Randy » Logged
Phatsub
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« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2009, 09:31:02 PM »

Here's the pics of the area that was being hit by the alternator casing



And here's the gringing I had to do to get it to fit. It really wasn't much.

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Randy
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« Reply #7 on: August 26, 2009, 09:36:54 PM »

Yes you can trim the alternator quite a bit in this area, you can cut the alternator completely through the housing. The stator wires inside the alternator are at least a 1/4 inch away.
Thank you for the input on helping others install the dual rectifier alternator.
The alternator hits the intake manifold because you have either the 250 or 350 amp dual rectifier alternator. The 250 and 350 have a thicker stator (about 1/4") The thicker stator is needed for the higher output unit.
« Last Edit: August 26, 2009, 09:41:48 PM by Randy » Logged
Phatsub
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« Reply #8 on: August 28, 2009, 07:49:12 AM »

Here's the new alternator finally installed. The numbers are fantastic too. I'll shoot a picture of the gauge showing the numbers tonight. 14+ volts at idle, around 8k rpm. I've never seen it that high.

« Last Edit: August 28, 2009, 08:39:29 AM by Phatsub » Logged
Phatsub
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« Reply #9 on: August 28, 2009, 05:15:53 PM »

Here's the numbers from the gauge at idle. I'm very pleased.
This alternator can be found at www.alternatorparts.com

« Last Edit: September 04, 2009, 11:51:04 PM by Randy » Logged
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